The east face of Aonach Mor is one of the most reliable and accessible places to climb in Scotland. High altitude and hardly any work for the summit with the gondola and quad lift running early in the morning.
With two recruits from the hut I was staying in we headed up on the first gondola with the intention of getting a couple of routes done.
Abseil down easy gully for the approach from where we traversed to the bottom of central buttress and the twins area.
With many parties out and some abseiling down routes, the routes we wanted to climb ‘left twin, morwind and siamese buttress’ were occupied. Met Rob Johnson who was climbing ‘Typhoon’
We decided to climb right twin and come back down once the other parties had finished.
I led all pitches, good solid ice. The top pitch turned into an epic being faced with a 2 metre overhanging cornice.
A long traverse out right was made until we could get up. I brought the other two up but the last pitch had taken too much time and we only got the one route done.
A brilliant day in intermittent sunshine, a little overcast and sheltered out of the wind until the top out which was gusting around 20 mph, got a little bit cold on belay after a while.
Watch the video HERE.