To finish off our weekend of wild camping we thought we would go and take a look at Trevor quarry. We didn’t need to haul all the trad gear up with us as there was mostly sport routes of a low to mid-grade here, so we figured we’d check it out.
First impressions were gained on a rollercoaster – please god I hope I don’t meet anyone coming the other way – single track road climbing out of Llangollen. Height was gained pretty quickly and soon we had a nice view opposite of the crag. We followed the road up just past Dinbren crag and parked up. The approach signalled an easy angled grassy path that sloped up to the base of the crag. We followed this for two or three minutes and boy, were we rewarded. A spectacular panorama across the Berwyn mountains set against the ruined castle of Dinas Bran on a hill at the forefront.
We had both never visited here before but agreed even if the climbing is crap the location more than makes up for it. We skirted around the cliff and soon found the path that ran at the base of the crag. Just as we began to look for routes, a few rain clouds flew overhead. Luckily, a huge limestone buttress offered a bit of natural protection, so we took the opportunity to brew-up and have a bite to eat. The rain didn’t do much and was soon over before it even started. We continued our walk down the crag searching for ‘DM Wall’ and ‘Over Yr Wall’ were the biggest pitches by a length were located.
To be honest, as we walked along the crag I was pretty underwhelmed, most of the routes seemed more like highball boulder problems; but we pressed on hunting for bigger rock.
Locating the walls, admittedly, took Liz’s expertise. The broken ‘Compact Wall’ throwing me off a little bit. Once we found the walls, we were pleased we had carried on down this far. The walls here looked far more appealing and we began to look at the routes.
We identified a number of routes, spanning from grades 4a to 5a, which I was happy to have a go leading. Liz only fancied top roping the higher grades, complaints of a sore knee. Between you and me I think it was a sore head from all the wine camping!
The climbing was great fun, we managed 5 different routes that we both climbed twice. Ace!
Best of all we had the entire crag all to ourselves and the location was the icing on the cake. It was a bit blustery but at least it was dry. All in all, it seemed a pretty solid crag, there was evidence of seepage on some of the lower parts but the climbing on our two walls was dry and entertaining. My favourite route of the day was the first one we climbed and surprisingly the easiest, a 4a called ‘Dim Parcio’. I think it was probably because it was the longest route of the day but the climbing was interesting for the grade finished off with a final overhang on suspicious looking rock.
We had a superb day sport climbing on attractive limestone. On a weekend, looking at the weather, we didn’t think we would be doing any climbing at all. So we fired up the jetboil one last time and enjoyed a nice warm brew whilst taking in the view.
We headed back along the track down to where the car was parked and started to make the journey back home. However, no day out is complete without finishing in the pub. We found a good one just outside of Llangollen and watched the second half of the Liverpool game. After a disappointing draw, we set off for home with plans of definite return to this charming little crag in a gem of a location.
For the video, check out my previous blog ‘Wild camping in the Arans’ or find it on my youtube channel!
Thanks for reading!